3 - 6 July 2012

Tuesday 3 July, Day 61 – Ulan-Ude – Chita

There were a lot of people leaving early this morning so I got up and mucked about on the internet for a while then went back to bed till about 9am.

I got the night shift girl to translate an email I have written into Russian so I can send it to Yatutia Airlines to ask about the possibility of shipping my bike to Alaska. I think this is a long shot but they do have passenger flights from Magadan to Anchorage for around 950 quid one way.

Set off for Chita at around 11.30am and soon bumped into the Argentinean guy standing at the side of the road trying to get a lift.  He was on his way to China and then South East Asia.  I passed him in a car later on and then we met again when his lift dropped him off right where I was taking a nap.

The weather is wetter out here in the East and I have had occasional showers all day.  This gives me concerns about the road up ahead and I can see I will need my off road tires fairly soon.  I stopped at 18.30 to find somewhere to camp but realized I had no water so moved on until I came to a café at about 19.30 and 240km short of Chita.  I corrected my watch using my mobile phone and put it forward 1 hour. 

I had some food in the café and found a place to camp just off the main road but still close to the café I got the tent up as quick as possible while the mosquitoes did their best to attack me and get into the tent.  Made a brew in the tent and settled down.

Within half an hour I had been discovered by the locals and it turned out my campsite was not the best choice.  A group of 6 teenage lads came to visit about 11.30 and started warning me about the Mafia and making pretend guns and pointing them at me.  I had to open the tent to shake their hands and this let a load of mosquitoes in.  It couldn’t be helped, I can’t afford to piss anyone off.

The mosquitoes saw off the boys, they only stayed a couple of minutes and they were getting bitten to bits.  I settled down again thinking about the Mafia and whether they were joking or not and swatting as many mosquitoes as I could find.   About half an hour later I was visited again by a group of 3 older teenagers and once again had to open the tent to say hello.  They also got bitten and left quick smart without mentioning the mafia.  I didn’t get much sleep but had no more visitors.

Wednesday 4 July, Day 62 – Chita, Eastern Siberia

I was glad to get on the road about 7.30 and had fun taking the tent down while trying not to get bitten too much.  There was a heavy mist for the first couple of hours and it gave me some visibility problems.  In the end I removed the pinlock insert from my visor and this helped considerably.

Had a good ride to Chita with occasional rain showers and sections of gravel road to keep me from getting bored.  Arrived Chita just after lunch and stopped to use the ATM and pick up some supplies. While I was at the ATM I got talking to 2 guys in their thirties.  They asked where I was going and when I told them they said to be careful and not to stop at some of the villages because I would get my throat slit by Muslims.  Their words not mine!

I hit the road again and stopped for something to eat when the rain started again.  I got talking to a guy outside the café who was a guide for tourists up in the Northern Chutokta areas well inside the Arctic Circle.  He reassured me that I could get through to Magadan on the bike although he did say the road was bad.  I spotted a nice looking town just off the highway and decided to look for a campsite by the river, hoping for a swim.

I parked up next to the river and met three of the local boys who were firing their catapults at the river.  Not at me, thankfully!  I made a brew and as I was drinking it a guy stopped in a pick-up with 2 small boys and introduced himself as Vasily.  He invited me to his house and I couldn’t refuse, he was a gent.

We moved my bike inside his fenced garden and he prepared dinner.  He had 2 nice dogs, although the larger one growled when I stroked her too vigorously.  He told me he was a teacher and had moved to the village from Moscow 14 years ago.  He was very proud of his Banya (bathhouse or sauna) and was stoking up the boiler while I went for a swim in the river.

I contributed some bread, sausage, and tins of sweet corn and kidney beans to the meal and we ate veal soup and a mushroom, potato, and veal stew, followed by sausage and smoked cheese.  Delicious!

Vasily and I ate first and after we had finished eating the women went to the table and ate.  Afterwards the women had first use of the bathhouse and then Vasily and I went in.  It was fantastically hot, as good as any sauna I have been in, and Vasily gave me a good beating with some specially selected branches.  It was fantastic and I hope it helps with some of my mosquito bites.  Not sure what the branches were.

The people lead a simple life in these villages and I have to say it appeals to me in many ways.  Vasily showed me a set of antlers that he had mounted and said the bigger of his dogs had killed the deer.  I asked Vasily about the Muslim issue in the villages and he said there was no problem.  This is reassuring but I am still considering making this my last excursion of the beaten track.

Thursday 5 July, Day 63 – Chita, Eastern Siberia

Woke about 6.30 and went to relieve myself in the outside privy.  It is so peaceful here at this time of day and I am so glad I decided to get off the main road.  I am in a dilemma about my new tires and can’t decide whether to get them fitted before I try the tough section after Tynda, or give it a go with the ones I have on.

Left Vasily at 9am and he gave me a bear hug to say goodbye and I made my way up through the village to hit the road for Scovorodino.  The landscape is amazing, it is mountain after mountain, forest after forest, and it seems to be endless.

Had some worries about fuel. Unable to get 95 grade benzine at many of the smaller gas stations.  Had to compromise in the end and put 6 litres of 92 grade in with my reserve tanks.  This got me to the outskirts of Scovorodino where the gas stations had 95 grade.

The roads were good and I had a long hard day in the saddle with quite a few rain showers.  Arrived just outside town at about 9pm and found a place to camp not far off the highway after having some dinner at a truckers café.  I have been keeping my eyes peeled for Bears, Wolves, and Tigers but so far haven’t seen anything except some wild looking dogs.  There is a distinct lack of road kill out here and I can’t figure this out.

Skovorodino is a key point in my journey and is quite near the border with China. This is the town where you turn north for Yakutsk and the Arctic Circle, or carry straight on for Vladivostok.  I have been staring at the names of places like Irkutsk, Chita, Skovorodino, Tyna, and Yakutsk for years and to be actually seeing them on road signs is a massive buzz for me.

Friday 6 July, Day 64 – Skovorodino to Nevjungri, Far East Russia

On the road about 7.30 and made my way through a heavy and wet mist into Skovorodino to fill up with fuel.  There doesn’t seem to be much there apart from the railway buildings.  I asked the petrol attendant the way to Tynda and she pointed up the road.

The tarmac ended within yards and it was crushed stone from there on.  Some stretches were quite bad with hundreds of deep potholes but others were quite flat and I was able to make decent time.  Met a man and his daughter on the road and they were on their way home to Yakutsk from Vladivostok. Angelina gave me her number and offered to help with Yakutia Airlines.

Arrived Tynda about 14.00 and was amazed to see it was a big town.  A biker flagged me down and was keen to help his name was Max and he gave me a warning about bears. He also gave me the number for a biker in Yakutsk called Andrey who would help if I needed anything.  I made my way down to the river bank and went for a swim.   Next I met a girl who knew the guy at the local bike workshop and she introduced me.  He was working on a Honda Firestorm and I wondered how it would handle the road from Chita. 

Next I was introduced to a guy who really knew the road to Magadan and was into serious off-road riding.  He was manager of the Russian Truck dealership in Tynda and had acted as guide to a guy from ADV Rider website who had done the trip on a Harley.  He gave me some important information on fuel stops and told me that one I had planned to use was no longer open for business.  He also gave me a stern warning about bears.

The weather turned bad and heavy rain made the road a lot more difficult to ride with potholes full of water and the sandy parts very slippery.  My feet were soaked in minutes and I was praying for a café to take a rest and dry off.

I bumped into Angelina again at my next café stop and also some guys from the Saka Republic in the far Northern region.  I was stopped for a brew up the road and they pulled over to take photos. Really nice guys and they said they would email me the snaps.  Arrived in Nevjungri about 21.30, filled up with gas and found a place to camp on the outskirts.

1 - 2 July 2012

Sunday 1 July, Day 59 – Lake Baikal, Russia

Got up early as I was cold and got the camp fire going to get warm.  Realised I will need some way of chopping wood when I get further towards Yakutsk.  The sunrise over the lake was great and I warmed up nicely.

Went back to bed and slept till 9am then I got up intending to take a swim but was disappointed to find the water was not too special and there was a lot of weed.  Decided not to swim but to look for an opportunity later on.

I got stuck in the small stream trying to get back under the railway and had to take all the luggage off and dig the bike out.  Very embasassing and luckily no-one came along.

Finally got back on the main and had a good ride all the way to Ulan-Ude.  There was a big festival going on and many of the roads were closed with Police on duty everywhere but a biker stopped and offered to show me the way to Lenina Street. I found the Ulan-Ude Traveler’s House without too much trouble and paid 600 Roubles for a night.

When I was shown to my bed I found that Julian, one of the guys I had met in Irkutsk, was already here and we were both surprised to see each other again.  This is a cool place and the Buryat owner Denis loves to play his guitar and interact with the guests.

Monday 2 July, Day 60 – Ulan-Ude, Russia

Lazy day around the hostel eating and updating my blog.  I went for a walk around town and was amazed at the giant statue of Lenin's head.

I have found flights from Magadan to Anchorage for passengers for a reasonable price and Denis contacted the airline by phone (Yakutia Air) to see if they could transport the bike also. He had no joy but got the number of the cargo desk in Yakutsk and I will try again tomorrow.

26 - 30 June 2012

Tuesday 26 June, Day 54 - Novosibirsk, Western Siberia, Russia

Left the Hostel about 10am and went to Anderson’s bike shop to take a photo and thank the staff again. I left some stuff at Elly's hostel including my rucksack and 2 of my fuel cans.  I think I can do without these and I still need to lighten my load.

I had the usual trouble finding the road out of Novosibirsk and eventually settled for the road to Kemerovo.  I made slow progress and decided to ride through the night to try and make up some time but I had to stop when a mist descended and made it unsafe to continue. Slept in my sleeping bag next to the bike at a disused café.

Wednesday 27 June, Day 55 - Krasnoyarsk, Eastern Siberia, Russia

Got back on the road as soon as the mist had lifted enough to ride and made good time once I got back on the main M53 road to Irkutsk. 

After a good day riding I pulled of the road at a track and followed it for a couple of kilometers to a spot where I could camp not far from the trans siberian rail lines.  No mosquitoes to be seen so put my ground sheet down and got my sleeping bag out intending to sleep under the stars.  Within a couple of minutes I was besieged by all manner of insects including mosquitoes so decided to get my tent up.  I got bitten all over while putting tent up and learnt an important lesson about camping in Siberia.

It was still daylight but I thought I had probably changed time zone so switched on my mobile phone to get a time update.  The time on my watch was 2 hours out as I suspected so I updated it.  

Thursday 28 June, Day 56 - Irkutsk, Eastern Siberia, Russia 

Slept quite well and hit the road about 8.30am and made good time over some good tarmac.  Every so often the tarmac finishes and the road is gravel and crushed stone but I am starting to really enjoy riding the gravel sections stood up in third gear

I can travel faster than the trucks and most of the cars but the 4wds are faster and kick up a lot of dust and stones.  I stopped for fuel and met a group of 40 French people in camper vans.  They were travelling from Paris to Peking and back through Istanbul.

Arrived Irkutsk about 17:00 and managed to find the Baikaler Hostel in the centre of the city quite easily.  This hostel is great with plenty of different nationalities all meeting up and sharing their experiences.  I paid about 10 quid a night.

Met a German couple called Lars and Anka and went for a beer with them.  We went to the Liverpool pub but the beer was warm and expensive so only stayed for one.

We moved on to another pub called Harald’s bar where they had the German v Italy football game on  at 3.45am.  The germans stayed to watch it but I went back to the hostel to sleep.  A random Russian guy followed me for a while but I confronted him and he pushed off quick.

Friday 29 June, Day 57 - Irkutsk, Eastern Siberia, Russia

Had a lazy day using the internet trying to find out how to get from Magadan to Alaska.  I met a French guy called Eric at the hostel who is a helicopter pilot.  He rides a Triumph Daytona similar to my bike at home and we had a good chat about bike stuff.

A group of eight of us went for a couple of beers in the evening to a restaurant 2 mins walk away.  The beer is expensive here but we only had a couple and the conversation was interesting.

Later on I sat and had tea with the Chinese boy called Li who is in the next bunk and is only 18.  He is cycling from Beijing to Moscow.  He gave me a Chinese bank note as a souvenir and I gave him my card and wrote in his diary.
 
Saturday 30 June, Day 58 - Lake Baikal, Eastern Siberia, Russia

I packed up my stuff and decided to discard my plastic panniers and as much other stuff as I dared to lighten the load ready for the road to Magadan.  I am hoping to buy some soft panniers when I get to Alaska.

I worked my way around the southern end of Lake Baikal and enjoyed the ride in some nice hills.  I started to look for a campsite on the beach fairly early and finally spotted somewhere I thought I could get to with the bike.  I followed a track which followed a stream bed under the railway and came out onto the lake beach. 

It was a great campsite but the trains were really noisy all night.  I was cold and uncomfortable sleeping on the pebble beach and regretted throwing my warm sleeping bag and inflatable mat away.  I was looking forward to a swim in the morning.

21 - 25 June 2012

Thursday 21 June – Day 49

On the road at about 7.30 and heading for Novosibirsk.  Further down the road I met a Russian couple on a Honda Shadow stopped at the side of the road and had a good chat. There seem to be a few more bikers in Russia which gives me hope that I will be able to find tires to fit my bike.

Couldn’t find the Hostel I had found on the internet and was about to rough it somewhere when a guy on a bike pulled over on a Honda and introduced himself as Anderson.  He called a hostel he knew on his mobile and I followed him there.  The owner was a young guy called Elly and he showed me a nice room with 3 beds which I had to myself.  The cost was 470 Roubles per night. Result!

Anderson explained that he worked at a motorcycle dealers and I said I would come and see him tomorrow as I need tires and maybe some electrical repairs.  He drew me a map which looked fairly simple.

The email address for this hostel is 2919449@mail.ru .  It is only 200 metres from the Central Station at Lenin Street 50 and I highly recommend it.  Elly’s mobile number is +79139159449.

Friday 22 June – Day 50

I had a lie in for once and then rode down to Anderson’s motorcycle store.  The map he had drawn me was spot on and I found it no problem.  The store is called HSCmotop and they have plenty of bikes for sale and a selection of quality clothing and oils etc. They stripped my bike down completely to try and fix my electrical problems and I was getting nervous how much his was going to cost. 

The bikes in the showroom are all approx. double the price they would be in the UK. The repairs took all day and I sat around waiting.  The mechanic showed me a faulty wire in the ignition which I could never have traced. At about 18.30 the bike was back together and I got a bill for 3310 Roubles (about 68 quid).

This evening I sat and drank a few beers with Elly in his lounge and we chatted about life in England and Russia.  He is an interesting guy and his family had moved to Siberia from Poland back in 1905.  He is part Jewish and has also spent time in Israel and America so we had plenty to talk about.

I mentioned the visa registration process and Elly offered to help me complete the forms and take them to the post office.  This will be a real bonus and I can relax and get on with the good stuff.

Saturday 23 June – Day 51

Decided to bite the bullet and buy tires from Anderson.  He has a Metzeler Karoo on the shelf at a discounted price to fit the rear,  and a Continental TKC 80 to fit the front.  Total cost is 11,300 Roubles, about 233 quid which is not too bad.  They are good off road tires and if these don’t get me through to Magadan then nothing will.

Sunday 24 June – Day 52

Elly wanted to get out of the city for the annual birthday celebrations. It clearly wasn't his thing and he asked if I wanted to come to his Dacha to swim in the lake.  This sounded good to me and we headed out of the city in his 4wd.

We swam in the lake and I noticed that there were people camping on the beach for free.

Later we ate kebabs then headed back to the city to watch the fireworks display.  I sat up and watched the England game live until 5am.  They were outplayed by Italy and even though it went to penalties I think the best team won so no complaints. 

Monday 25 June – Day 53

Packed my bags ready to leave for Irkutsk and went to post office with Ellie to register my visa with immigration.  No problems and I paid a fee of about 300 Roubles.  We were told to come back and pick up the paperwork at around 19.00 today.

Elly had stuff to do and I went to pick up my tires from Anderson's motorbike store.  I came back to the Hostel but there was no one around so I had a kip in the gardens.  After a while I decided to go for a quick spin to get some bread and fruit.  I was on my way back when I was waived down by the Police.  I was not doing anything wrong but I guess I stand out a bit.

The officer spoke rapid Russian at me and I explained I was Angliski tourist but he was unimpressed and said 'Russki Police' and repeated the Russian he had just said and knew I did not understand.  I knew he was probably asking for my documents and I realized I only had my passport with me.  I showed him this and he showed me his driving licence and asked for mine.  Oh shit!

I tried to explain it was at the Hostel but he just laughed as if I was a complete idiot and was about to have the book thrown at me.  I was told to sit in the Police car and he started filling in forms and talking loads of Russian at me that I didn't understand.  He finally realised I didn't understand and tried to communicate a bit more using his hands and a pen.  He explained that the bike was to be towed away and made the sign of hand cuffs towards me.  My heart sank and all I could think was Oh my god!

I have been in some minor scrapes on my trips and always managed to find a solution but I had a real feeling I was in deep s**t this time and had visions of the bike being crushed.  After much saying of  ‘please, please’ and ‘I don’t understand’ (in Russian of course) and 'Hotel 2 minutes away' he indicated I should go and get my licence on foot and come back to the car.  I hot footed it back to the hostel but there was no sign of Elly and i was still locked out.

There were a young couple in the gardens and I asked if I could use there mobile phone for a moment.  I had Elly's number in my wallet.  I called him and explained what happened and he said he would be back in 1 hour.  I was staring to panic a bit and ran back to the place where the Police were.  I was relieved to see the bike was still there and I tried to explain to the officer.

He was not best pleased and indicated again that the bike was to be taken away.  I went back to the hostel to wait for Elly.  When he arrived I grabbed my documents and ran back to the Police again.  He looked at my driving licence but was not happy.  I showed my international driving permit and this seemed to do the trick.  Amazingly he indicated I was free to go and take the bike with me.  I couldn't believe it and I think his partner said I was very lucky.

After all the drama I decided to stay another night at Elly's place.  He had picked up my visa registration documents and I put them with my passport.  Elly was off to his Dacha to spend time with his son David and introduced me to a woman who would be looking after the Hostel for the night.  I settled down for the night a four pack and some nibbles.

16 - 20 June 2012

Saturday 16 June, Day 44 - Uralsk, Kazakhstan
Went into Uralsk town centre to try and find the OVIR office (immigration).  Found an official looking place and parked up outside.  As I was dismounting a man came out and I asked him for Immigration Registration and showed him my passport.  He seemd to understand and arranged for the office security guard to provide me with a taxi service to the police station and said he would look after my bike.
We went to one police station but were told it was the wrong one.  The officer spoke to my driver and told him where we had to go.   He took me there and waited while I got it sorted.  The guy on reception and his sidekick wanted some money for basically doing nothing but I told them no chance and they gave up.

I was shown into a small office and the man there told me to sit down while he did the paperwork.  He asked where I was staying and I explained I had no hotel and told him where I had come from etc.  He showed me photos of himself driving through Beyneu and eventually gave me the stamp I needed.

I thanked the guys who had helped and paid the security guard for the taxi service.  He was really cool and had been a great help.  I set off for Aktobe and got as far as I could but the road turned bad so I slept next to the bike until the early hours.

Sunday 17 June, Day 45 - Aktobe, Kazakhstan

Stopped at a cafe for a drink and a pair of beggars gave me a bit of hassle but I was in no mood and told them to get lost.  Further up the road I spotted a cyclist stopped for a rest and pulled over.  He was a 26 year old from Cologne called Axel who was making his way from Beijing back home.   We got talking and then a 4wd pulled up and 4 Kazak guys got out to talk to us.  They were in high spirits and were going fishing and insisted we drink some schnapps and beer.
Axel told me he had been stopped by the Police a couple of days earlier and they had taken $200 dollars from him.  His bike only had one gear and it must have been tough going into the wind.  He asked if I was smoking weed as there was a whole field of it just down the road.

I wanted a good nights sleep after the previous night so I pulled off early at a small village and asked a farmer if it was ok to camp next to his house.  He said ok and the local boys helped me put my tent up.  I asked if there was a café and they said no but there was a Magazine (shop).  It just happened to be in the farmer’s house.  We all went in and I bought some peach juice and left it in the freezer to chill. 

I bought the boys some boiled sweets for helping and they seemed chuffed.  As we walked out of the shop my tent was flying across the village in the wind.  The boys chased after it and brought it back.  The farmer told me I could move my bike and the tent inside the high steel wall of his garden.  Once I had settled in a younger guy came round who turned out to be the son and he invited me in for some food.  I accepted and we sat with his wife and had noodle and meat soup followed by tea with the family.  The Kazaks take their tea with milk and this feels strange now after drinking so much black Chai.   I thanked them for their hospitality and retired to my tent.

A few of the locals had gathered and I showed them around the bike and let them rev it etc.  They were interested in the technical side of things and were looking at the suspension and drive chain.  They asked the usual questions about how much it had cost and I have got so used to this I have written it on a piece of paper to bring out each time I get asked.   

Monday 18 June, Day 46 - Kazakhstan

I was woken by the cockerels as usual and left the village at about 7.30am after saying my goodbyes.  The father would not take any cash for letting me stay and wished me good luck. Later on I was sure I saw an eagle.  I have seen plenty of birds of prey but this was huge and so impressive to watch.  I also saw plenty of strange badger like creatures that keep running out of the steppe onto the road.  There are millions of flying grasshoppers on the road and I can hear them crunching on my boots.

Every so often a swarm of them launch and cause me to duck as low as possible behind the screen.  The road here is good so I am riding in my t-shirt as it is so hot.  The grasshoppers are splattered everywhere and make a hell of a noise on my visor. 

Not as hot today and I can tell I am heading north.  I stopped and went for a swim in a lake about 30 miles south of Kostanay.  Passed straight through Kostanay, too many Police hanging around.  I try not to look at them.  Found the road for Petropavlovsk easily and set off. Stopped at a fuel station and 3 guys got talking then gave me a bottle of brandy.

The countryside is stunning north of Kostanay with elm tree forests and meadows on either side of the road.  Pulled off to look for a camp site and a 4wd pulled alongside to say hello. I stopped and told them I was looking for somewhere to put my tent to sleep.  The man said to follow him to his house and I thought ‘Why not!’.

His name was Uskulen and he had a fantastic place with a huge lake and a campsite in the process of being built.  Uskelen disappeared for a while and the lady he had been with prepared a light meal for me consisting of cold meat and salad with plenty of tea.  Interestingly, the Kazaks drink their tea with milk, which is different to Turkey, Georgia and Azerbaijan, where I only saw it taken black.

Uskelen returned and some guests turned up, it seemed he had invited people around to meet me and to have dinner.  The chef is a big guy called Askar who seems to be everything from builder to minder and Uskelen told me he had built the sauna and the house.

The other guests were a young couple called OJ and his girlfriend Assel, and an older couple with 2 young children.  The lady was very quiet but the guy told me he was the local prosecutor.  Uskelen seems to be well connected and I think it must be useful out here.

We had a lovely meal of lamb stew with potatoes and various other treats.  The vodka toasts were many and I was treated as very much the guest of honour.  Assel had trained as an interpreter and this came in very useful.  Her boyfriend, OJ, also spoke fairly good English and had travelled quite extensively around the states.

He told me he and Uskelen were planning a road trip to Europe and I invited them to come and stay with me anytime they can make it. OJ asked where I would like to sleep and said I could go to the campsite by the lake and sleep in a Yurt if I would like to.  This sounded interesting so I agreed and Uskelen said he would also sleep there. He drove me in his 4wd across some rugged terrain for 10 minutes in complete darkness  to the campsite.

The place is great with three log cabins, tents, and one large traditional yurt.  We ate the leftovers from tonight’s meal and drank some more vodka toasts then turned in.

Tuesday 19 June, Day 47 - Kazakhstan

Woke up in the Yurt after a great sleep and went for a swim in the lake.  This place is absolutely stunning with green meadows and woods sloping down to the water.

Uskelen took me back to his house and 2 journalists turned up to take photos and interview me.  This was all new to me and I have never been interviewed on tape before.  They asked some searching questions and I had to think carefully about my answers.

We ate some cold meats and I drank tea but they all drank vodka toasts and wished me luck and a safe journey.  I left Uskelen and OJ at about midday and headed for Petropavlovsk and the border with Russia.

Stopped at a café about 20km short of Petropavlovsk quite early and had a good meal of soup with some bread stuffed with meat, followed by pasta and bifshteks (a sort of hamburger).  The food in the small roadside cafes is quite cheap and excellent.

I befriended the owners son and daughter and they practiced their English on me using a mobile phone translater.  I explained I was going to sleep close by and head for Omsk tomorrow (zaftra).  The owner of the haulage yard next door turned up and he was really friendly.  I think he had been on the Piva (beer) all day.  He insisted I stay and sleep in his home.

I would have preferred to sleep outside but didn’t want to offend as he was so friendly so I took a shower and slept on the floor of his office. 

Wednesday 20 June, Day 48 - Russian border

I hit the road early and was away before the locals had risen.  The road was bad in places and at one stop I realized my Belstaff coat had come loose due to the constant bouncing down the road and was missing.  I rode back 15 miles along a bad stretch of road before I found it.  I really need to take more care strapping my luggage on.

Reached the border at about 14.00 and queued up to cross.  Had no problems and I was through in less than an hour and on my way to Omsk.  I was expecting the third degree but the crossing was so much easier than getting into Kazakhstan and the first Russian face I saw was a pretty blonde Russian guard who smiled and was helpful with the immigration paperwork.  This is what all border crossings should be like.

Passed straight through Omsk as there was a sign for Novosibirsk that seemed to avoid the centre and I still had daylight. The countryside is stunning and I decided to pull off and find a free campsite.

Checked the price of fuel and it is 27.2 Roubles a litre for the 95 Octane.  The exchange rate is currently about 48.3 Roubles to the Pound so this makes the fuel about 57 pence a litre.  This is good news and will help to keep my costs down for the next few weeks.

11 - 15 June 2012

Monday 11 June, Day 39 - Baku, Azerbaijan

One of the ships waiting outside the port finally docked and I worked out from the name on the side that it was my boat.  I took my documents to the office and they told me there was a problem with customs because the bike had been in the country more than 3 days. I tried to explain that it had been parked in customs at the Old Port but it wouldn't wash and I was told I had to go to the main customs office to pay a fine.

We didn't have much time and I had to get a fast taxi into the city with a guy from the port who new the system and where to go.  I paid a $25 dollar fine at the customs office and was given the necessary paperwork to show at the port and we headed back at break neck pace.

I finally boarded the ship at about 15.30 and was shown a pretty shabby cabin where I could get my head down.  We left port for Aktau Kazakhstan at about 21.00 and I had a feeling my trip was really just beginning.

I cooked up some food in the cabin (noodles and sausage) using my gas stove and was worried that this was going to get me in trouble.  I had the port hole open and was wafting the smells out in the hope I wouldn't get sussed.  The cabin had 4 bunks and I had read about cramped conditions on these boatrs so I was counting myself  lucky to get a cabin to myself.

My camera has gone on the blink and won't focus properly as you can see from the last picture.  This is a real nuisance and I will probably have to buy another but not sure when I will get chance.

The toilet facilites are a real disgrace and I am hoping we don't get stuck outside Aktau port for 3 days in the same way the previous people had.  I can’t find any showers on the ship but I have a sink in my capin so it is not too bad.  On the plus side, the ship is incredibly quiet and smooth and I left the cabin window open to listen to the sea while I dozed off.

Tuesday 12 June, Day 40 - Aktau, Kazakhstan

Woke about 4.30am so got up early, made some coffee, and went on deck to watch the sun rise. Unfortunately it was cloudy so no show but it was still nice to see the day emerging over the horizon.  The top deck was deserted and really eerie, almost like a ghost ship.  Later on I went for another stroll around the deck and had Chai with the skipper who told me he had worked on the ships in Newcastle England.

We arrived at Aktau about 19.00 but didn’t get off ship until 21.00.  I was talking to the Turkish wagon drivers and they were also glad to have finally arrived.  We went by bus to a port building and through passport control then it was back to the ship to unload vehicles.  I was then told I had to leave bike in customs at the port until tomorrow. 

I didn't want to pay for a taxi so started walking towards Aktau town with my rucksack.  It was hot and dark and the walk turned into a nightmare hike. I had mis-calculated how far it was and was considering sleeping rough.  I managed to get some Kazak cash from a randomly placed ATM and stopped at a petrol station to get a much needed drink.  A local guy who was buying fuel heard me talking and helped me get served.  He then came over and offered me a lift to a hotel.  His name was Denis and he was a lawyer.  He had his family with 2 kids in the car and they were really nice.  He tried 2 hotels and I eventually got a room sorted at the 'Green Hotel' for $40.

The room was nice enough but I took a shower and as soon as I lay down I realised I had heat stroke and couldn't stop shivering.  It passed eventually and I managed to re-hydrate and get some sleep. 

Wednesday 13 June, Day 41 - Aktau - Beyneu, Kazakhstan

I had a great hotel breakfast with 2 sausages and 2 fried eggs. Yoghurt, jam, and pancakes and really good coffee.  Then I took a taxi to the port.  The driver was a swine and made it clear he was going to charge me extra for waiting outside the hotel.  I was pissed off as I didn't think he had waited more than 30 seconds.  I told him he could swivel and he carried on driving.  When we got there he wrote down the pice and had added a quid on.  It wasn't too bad so I paid it and grunted.

Getting through customs was a nightmare and the staff were less than helpful.  I had to pay about $20 customs duty which I didn't understand but it didn't seem to bad. My first impressions of the Kazak people though was not good.  I eventually cleared customs around 11am after having to ride and walk around the port to get the 4 stamps I needed on the documentation.  It was bloody hot and I was sweating up again. 

I rode into Aktau looking for somewhere to get a camera and noticed there were traffic Police everywhere.  I had heard they could be awkward and dish out random fines.  Sure enough, I was waved down by one and he asked where I was going etc.  I showed him my docs and was waiting for him to find my damaged indicator when luckily another car drew his attention and I managed to sneak off. 

I decided to get out of town asap and managed to find the road to Beyneu after first ending up at the airport.  It was getting hotter and hotter and I was tempted to ride in my t-shirt but resisted.  The road surface was pretty good so far and I stopped for a welcome cold drink.  I spoke to a guy in the cafe and he warned me about Ali Babas and that I should keep an eye on my bike.  There are masses of camels wandering all over the place and they are a constant hazard on the road.

The road turned bad from Shipte towards Beyneu and gradually got worse and worse.  This was the worst road I have seen and the wagons kicking up dust and gravel made it even more unpleasant.  I was beginning to regret the amount of luggage I was carrying and flt that the constant vibration and potholes must be taking a toll on the bike.

It was not helped by the surroundings and the barren steppe either side of the highway gave no chance of resting places.  The road surface consisted of rocks, gravel, deep ruts filled with dust, and huge potholes.  I came to grief going through a rut filled with deep dust and was lucky to get clear of the bike.  I was annoyed more than anything and when I looked back at the rut there were 2 iron hoops buried in the dust that must have brought me down. 

I quickly got the luggage off and stood the bike up.  Luckily there seemed to be no real damage done and I loaded up and got moving again.  The nightmare continued for mile after sweltering mile and I was so glad when finally the road turned to tarmac.  I pulled off at a small town to look for a campsite but it was pretty grim and I wasn't sure about staying.  I spoke to a boy on a bicycle called Lucas  to ask if there was a store, he was wearing a Tevez Argentina shirt.  He took me to a Café Bar and when I walked in I was so surprised to find a pristine bar with TV, air conditioning, and pretty barmaid. It was really surreal! 

I couldn't resist it and asked for a draught beer.  The barmaid produced a large frozen stein glass and served the best pint I think I have ever had.  I just had to have another and it was tempting to stay and get slammed but I said my goodbyes and moved on.  There was no benzine available in the town so I set off again hoping to see somewhere just outside town to sleep and get fuel.  

Pretty soon the road turned bad again and it was just going dusk when I came off again in deep gravel on an incline.  I had riding too fast and confident after my 2 beers and regretted the second pint.  This was a worse crash and I scraped my leg a little and wrecked my right boot.  

It was getting dark and I was very tired so I gave in and pulled off onto the steppe at the side of the road and was relieved to find the ground was firm.  Slept on ground sheet for an hour then 2 kazak lads in a transit stopped and told me it wasn’t safe. I thought they looked like troouble but they were sound enough and made signs for snakes and spiders to explain their concern for me.  I took the hint and packed up and moved off again.

At about 1.30am I finally spotted a small building with a light on at the side of the road and pulled over.  It wasn't obvious that this was a cafe but I looked in through the door and found five men lying down drinking tea and eating.  There was a window in the wall inside to order your food and drink from and I got a bottle of ice cold Aqua and sat down to drink.  I was just glad of a safe place to rest for a while.  After 20 mins or so the other men left and I went outside and slept on and next to the bike until daylight.

Thursday 14 June, Day 42 - Aktau - Bejneu, Kazakhstan

Up early and made some noodles and sardines for breakfast then got back onto the road from hell towards Beyneu.  The road was still just as bad and I was running low on gas when I was extremely glad to reach a tarmac stretch.  I was about 16km from the next gas station when I ran out.  I must have ridden past a gas station during the night.

I pushed the bike off the road to a patch of trees and found there was a shack with a strange Kazak guy in it wearing a vest and flat cap.  He was great and I offered him some cash for water.  I got changed out of my bike gear to hitch into town with a can and the Kazak guy hung up my socks to dry.  They were soaked in sweat not water. 

I managed to thumb a lift in the slowest wagon on the road and when the road turned bad again I got a taste of what it was like travelling over the bumps on 4 wheels not 2.  He dropped me at a gas station and they had run out of 95 but the attendant syphoned some out of his own tank for me and arrange a lift back to the bike.  I said my goodbyes to the guy in the shack and he wished me luck.

When I got to Beyneu I filled up and was disappointed to find the fueling method is pre-payment which makes it difficult to fill up properly.  I reached a place called Dosser and was told the road to Makat was similar to Beyneu and that I should go to Atyrau and then head north to Uralsk to avoid it.  I was having more problems with the fuel and regretted filling up with cheap 92 Octane. The 92 is 1.10 Tenge and the 95 is 1.40 Tenge (about 70 pence a litre)

I also spotted a small oil leak which looks to have been caused by the rear brake lever hitting the engine casing when I crashed.  Stopped just short of Atyrau at a roadside café and had some soup and meat.  Asked if I could sleep there and was shown a dorm room which I had to myself for 1000 Tenge (about 5 quid).  It was only 8.30 but I parked the bike round the back and went straight to bed and didn't move till morning.

Friday 15 June – Day 43

I got up early and went for a pee but was absolutely mobbed by mosquitoes.  I saddled up quick smart and decided to head for Atyrau to try and register my visa.  If no joy I will push on for Uralsk and try again. Depending what happens, I will then either cross straight into Russia or head for Aktjubinsk.

The landscape is gradually getting greener and more fertile looking.  There are also less camels wandering around but more cattle, horses, and goats straying onto the road.

Reached Atyrau but it was huge and I just wasn't in the mood for battling through a town so I decided to push on for Uralsk.  I arrived there about 16.30 so it was too late to look for the immigration office where I believe I can register my visa for free.  Uralsk has a much more Russian than Asian feel and i found out it is actually closer to Vienna than the capital Almaty which explains it.

Stopped for a couple of beers at a restaurant and was paying 1.90 Tenge for a large stein.  I worked my way back to the edge of town where I had seen a truckers Motel and paid 5000 Qapek (about 25 pounds) for a nice big room with air conditioning and private bathroom.  Got showered and went to the truckers café where I had meat and potatoes and a couple of beers before turning in for another early night.

6 - 10 June 2012

Wednesday 6 June, Day 34 - Baku, Azerbaijan

Went looking for the post office with Marcus and Esther to find out how much it would be to send my laptop and some other bits and pieces back to the UK.  I spotted a BMW 650 GS in town with South African plates and later on I bumped into the couple travelling with it outside the post office. 

They are heading for Vladivostock and are just starting the visa process for Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, and Kazakhstan.  I gave them the heads up on the 3 day customs rule for thebikes and we had a good chat about tires.  The guy swears by a make called Heidenrau from Germany for dual purpose use.  We exchanged email addresses etc and I am hoping to catch up with them in Russia.

I went to check on my bike and the original car park attendant I had struck the deal with was on duty so I gave him 4 Manat to keep him sweet.  He told me to go to the main desk which I did and the guy there told me there was no problem and that I could collect the bike anytime.   

I posted my damaged laptop back to the UK for 36 Manat (approx. 30 pounds) along with the cables and my digital radio which hasn't been used.  Just as I got back to the Hostel a Japanese arrived and took the bunk opposite.  His name was Shinya and he insisted we call him Woods as he thinks he looks like Tiger.  He runs an online store selling Japanese made craft items and kept us all entertained most of the evening with tales of strange and disgusting Asian food delicacies.

We all sat round the balcony in the evening and drank beers and introduced ourselves properly and talked about all sorts of travel stuff.  There was Angelica and Sami from California and France, Etienne and Marie from France (Nantes), and Jean Sebastien and Anna from France (Tours) and of course Shinya from Japan. 

Thursday 7 June, Day 35 - Baku, Azerbaijan

This morning I had a good chat with Shinya about Twitter.  He has 13,000 followers and seems to be something of an expert.  At about 10am I called the Kazakhstan Embassy and was told I could collect my visa at 16.00 that day.  I walked up to the embassy as I need the exercise. I might not be carrying any weight at the moment but I have been getting no cardio exercise at all.

When I arrived at the embassy the consulate official explained there was an official delegation over from Kazakhstan and hence there might be a slight delay.  I sat down and fell asleep in the waiting area. I hope I wasn't snoring.  An hour later I was presented with my passport with visa inserted.

I left the embassy and walked to the new port to ask about boats to Aktau.  This was quite an ordeal in the baking sun and I reckoned it was a good work out if nothing else.  When I got to the port gates I was told 'maybe tomorrow' by the security men.  This sounded more promising than the first time I had been there and I walked back to the hostel and packed up my gear ready for an early start.

Friday 8 June, Day 36 - Baku, Azerbaijan

Up at 5.30 and went to collect the bike from the Old Port while the sun was just rising.  The car park attendant said he had been getting grief from his boss about the bike, I think he was making it up but I was in a good mood so gave him a couple of Manat to shut him up.  Rode back to the hotel, loaded up my luggage and headed off to the New Port without disturbing the other guests too much. 

When I arrived at the port I got talking to the security men and there was no news about when the next boat was due to leave.  The wind was now getting up and I spoke to some of the Turkish and Austrian wagon drivers who were queued up outside the port gates waiting for ferries to both Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan and they seemed to think it would be a couple of days at least.

I was in 5 minds what to do but didn't want to miss a boat if things changed quickly so I decided to rough it next to the bike outside the security hut that night.  This helped me to get to know the guards and they were bringing me tea within a few hours and letting me use their sink to wash.  During the night a couple of idiots came to visit and woke me up to tell me there were snakes etc. They just wanted to be a pain in the ass. I was not in the best of moods and really wanted to let loose but I didn't know who they were so I bit my lip.

 
I met them again over the coming days and it turned out they worked in the offices at the port so I was glad I had kept quiet.  One of them was a complete arse.  I haven't met many people on this trip i haven't liked but he was definitely one.

Saturday 9 June, Day 37 - Baku, Azerbaijan

It got gradually more windy during the night and it was a real nightmare all day with the loads of dust being blown everywhere.  The ticket office window finally opened in the afternoon and I was told there might be a boat tomorrow.  I paid $200 for a ticket, 110 for the bike and 90 for me and was told I could now park the bike inside the port gates.

The Austrian truck drivers were great and they left me presents at the port gates. Vitamins, cans of beer, tins of food etc.  One of them was particularly great his name was Tomas and he was a Kawasaki rider.  They were dropping their trailers on the quayside and off back to Austria.

It was getting dark and there was no sign of a ship so I decided to put the tent up and sleep on the quayside.  When I opened the tent bag I found there was a problem with my tent poles.  The elastic holding them together had fallen too peices. This made it really difficult getting the tent up in the high wind and I could sense people watching me around the port in hysterics while I struggled.  I was determined not to look round and kept at it until I finally got it up.  The wind was a nightmare all night and the tent was all over the place even with my luggage inside to hold it down.

Sunday 10 June, Day 38 - Baku, Azerbaijan

The wind gradually died down during the day and I was glad to get my stuff sorted out.  The security men told me we would not be departing today and I gathered that there were several boats queued up outside the port waiting to dock.  I settled down to another long day of waiting in the baking sun.  At least i was inside the gates and I could use the port facilities.

The port gate security men caught a small snake on the car park during the early evening about 20 metres from my tent and took great delight in showing it to me. I pretended to be unimpressed and asked if they were ok to eat.  I settled down to a second night camping next to the Police Office and when the shift changed a Police Officer called Karin came over to chat and invited me in to the station for Chai and we sat and watched a movie and tried to communicate.

It was tough going and after a whle I made my excuses and returned to my tent to have some grub and turn in hoping that the boat would be leaving tomorrow. 

2 - 5 June 2012

Hi everyone!

Firstly I must apologise to any avid followers for the lack of updates recently.  I have been grafting away trying to make up some time after being delayed in both Georgia and Azerbaijan with visa and ferry complications.  By the way, thanks for all your messages and Facebook comments, they really perked me up last night.

Anyway, I made it into Russia on Wednesday 20 June and am currently in a nice Hostel in Novosibirsk where I have good internet access so can catch up on a few things.

I can't believe how long ago my last update was but I will try and fill you in with progress and get up to date before I move on from here for Irkutsk.

 

Saturday 2 June, Day 30 - Baku, Azerbaijan

There was a thunder storm during the night and I had forgotten to put the cowling on my tent.  I got a little damp but managed to throw the outside ground sheet over the tent and this stopped the leak.  Up at 5.30am, thanks to the cockerels, and set off for Baku about 6am being very careful not to pick up another speeding fine on the way. Reached Baku early afternoon and was amazed at the size of it.

I could see I was going to have fun finding the only cheap hostel I could see on the internet.  I rode round for ages and stopped for a pot of tea at one of the many squares to try and get my bearings.

Was just about to give up when I spotted a sign for the Meridien Hotel and I left the bike and went to look for it on foot.  A guy spotted me and called over was I looking for a hostel.  I must look like a seasoned traveller by now.  He was related to the owner of the Caspian Sea Hostel and showed me the way up an alley.

It is a great location very close to the sea front and centre of town.  Paid for 3 nights at 16 Euros per night which is a little expensive but there are no alternatives in Baku. The small room I was in has four sets of bunk beds and all the bottom bunks were taken so I chose a top bunk in the corner and moved in.  The hostel owner showed me where I could park close by so I went to get the bike.

This place is certainly ‘backpacker central’ and the first people I met were a Swiss girl and a German guy on a Honda CB750 just arrived from Aktau so I was able to pick up some more information on the ferries. Next arrival was an Australian guy called Mark lives in London.  He was a journalist and very well travelled so gave me some pointers on South America.

Sunday 3 June, Day 31 - Baku, Azerbaijan

This morning I met 2 French guys who are staying at the Hostel. They are touring on bicycles and hoping to catch the boat to Aktau today or tomorrow. They showed me on Google maps where the Kazakhstan embassy is which was really helpful.

I went off to find the new ferry terminal and almost got knocked off when a brand new white BMW X5 gave me a good shunt on my left pannier at the lights.  I had a couple of minor contacts in Tbilisi but nothing like this. I was left with white paint on my luggage so I guess he regretted it later.

I found the Ro-Ro terminal but the guys on security there couldn’t understand me at all and called a woman who spoke English.  She told me I had to go to the Old Port but this in contradiction to the research I have done.  I tried to explain about the 3 day customs rule and she told me I should leave the bike with customs at the Old Port.

After riding up and down the sea front a few times I found the Old Port terminal and found a good man at the desk who spoke English.  I explained about the 3 day rule and that I would not be leaving for at least 4 days.  He took me to speak to the car park attendant who would be looking after the bike. The attendant was not happy and wanted some cash to keep an eye on the bike.  This all seemed wrong to me but what can you do? I agreed to pay 5 Manat a day and took my luggage, apart from the panniers, back to the hostel.

 

Sat on the hostel balcony and had a few beers with a guy called Mat from Perth.  He works in the mining industry doing Geo-Phys surveys and lives near Perth. Mat had come through Iran and was heading west.  A guy from Poland turned up who had also been to Iran.  He and Mat exchanged stories and it sounds like a great place to visit.

The girl from California asked if she and her French boyfriend could tag along when I go to the Kazakhstan embassy tomorrow and I was happy to have some company.

Monday 4 June, Day 32 - Baku, Azerbaijan

Set off around 10am to find the Kazakhstan Consulate in Baku on Inglab Street.  I realized it was going to be more difficult to find than I had expected so decided to get a cab as there were plenty around.  The guy asked for 5 Manat and I agreed without arguing.  When I realized how far away the Embassy was I was glad I hadn’t continued walking.

I rang the bell at the Embassy and spoke to a man over the intercom who explained that they were closed and I should come back after 9.30 Tuesday to Friday.  I walked slowly back to the Hostel soaking up the Baku atmosphere.
       

Went to get a street stall kebab with the German couple, Marcus and Esther, from Frankfurt then sat on the balcony and drank a few beers.  The Pakistani guy showed up and sat and chatted for a while.  We talked about cricket and he invited me to come and stay at his home in Islamabad.  He was in Baku for a month while his visa for Montenegro was authorized.

Tuesday 5 June, Day 33 - Baku, Azerbaijan

Shared a taxi to the Embassy with Marcus and Esther, the American girl and her French boyfriend.  When we got there the official told me the process would take at least 4 days and gave me the forms to fill in. They have a system whereby you have to deposit the $30 fee at a bank in Baku and bring the receipt when you come to collect the visa so we all went off to find the bank.

As we were coming out of the Embassy I met the 2 Belgian cyclists that I had met back in Georgia.  They had left their bikes in Sheki and come to Baku by train but were struggling to find the Turkmenistan Embassy.  I asked Tim to forward me the email address of James the cyclist from Durham.

Back at the Hostel, an American guy had moved in to the bed opposite and we got talking. His name was Dustin from Montana and he had a job teaching English in one of the northern towns. He explained a few of the local customs and culinary delights.  While we were talking we heard on the news that 3 Azerbaijan soldiers had been killed in the Nagorno-Karabakh area.

Walked down to the Old Port to check on the bike and the parking attendant came over to ask questions that I didn’t understand.  I told him ‘Kazakhstan 3 days’ and this seemed to satisfy him for the time being. The sooner I get my visa and get moving the better.